The meat revolution began several years ago, and is showing no signs of slowing down. Unless, you have been living under a rock for the past few years, I am sure that you have definitely been hearing the words green and sustainability more often now than ever before. This movement has created the whole farm to table mentality of utilizing fresher, nutrient dense foods that have not been languishing in warehouses and trucks for weeks on end before making it to the table. It has spread to everything from the grains we eat, to the milk we drink and now more than ever it also includes the quality of the proteins we consume. This new found awareness created opportunities for local producers who broke with tradition, and decided to be different in how they raised their animals. These producers discovered increasing demands for their products and new found opportunities to sell their items at local mom & pop stores, farmers markets and co-ops in every community across the nation. The momentum has begun and has even forced large grocery chains like Walmart to make room on their shelves for more sustainable products. 

But what are we actually buying? 

The increased demand for global food production, created many changes in the meat industry over the past 75 years. Producers needed to meet ever growing annual demands which led farmers away from grass fed beef to grain fed beef because it was easier and more profitable. Grass fed steers will take 4 or 5 years to grow from 80 lbs at birth to 1200 lbs at slaughter. Nowadays with the use of starchy grain, it takes approximately 16 months to raise a steer from birth to slaughter. An enormous amount of corn, protein supplements, antibiotics and other drugs, including growth hormones are used to get the calf to that weight in such a short period of time. Other livestock has experienced the same fate.

Switching a grazing animal, whether it is cattle, sheep or goat, (known as ruminants in the meat industry) from grass to grain can be very destructive to the animal’s digestive system, and can kill the animal if not done gradually. The most serious ailment is feedlot bloat, where the diet consists of too much starch and not enough roughage. Copious amounts of gas can build up and get trapped in the stomach creating acidosis and pressure on the lungs. If not relieved, the animal suffers and can become sick and die due to a variety of ailments such as suffocation, diarrhea, ulcers, liver disease and a general weakening of the immune system. When their intestinal tracts become acidic, it creates an environment that favors the growth of pathogenic E. coli bacteria, which in turn kills or severely maims people who eat undercooked meat… Sound familiar?

 So, why am I telling you all of this?

As a nation, we have begun to ask more questions about the products we consume because we have realized that current industry behaviors are not only unnatural and dangerous for the animals, but also have profound consequences on our health. Feedlot livestock leads to the development of antibiotic-resistant bacteria, which are rendering our standard antibiotic regimens ineffective when we need them the most.

In addition to the health risks of eating subpar meat products, grain fed (mostly corn) livestock is not as nutritionally superior as grass fed products. It has been shown that grass fed beef is naturally lower in overall fat and is also higher in omega 3 fats, higher in Vitamin E and also higher in Conjugated Linoleic Acid (CLA), a nutrient associated with lower cancer risks. Grass fed products do come with a trade off, though…they tend to be characterized by a more gamey flavor that many people do not find appealing.  

As well as the nutritional advantages, there are also many environmental benefits that may lead you to support grass fed, pastured meat. Growing animal feed requires a great deal of petroleum based chemical fertilizers that leach into the environment and our waterways. Preserving more land to grow more feed grain will greatly perpetuate this issue. On the other hand, the natural grazing process allows for the animal waste to become part of the nutrient cycle for the next cycle of crops, and does not build up to become a source of pollution…one negative issue for grass fed livestock is that it is the single largest producer of methane gas, which in addition to other greenhouse gases in the atmosphere, has significantly increased over the last 50 years.

Unfortunately, grass-fed meat is typically more expensive, and not something that many people may have access to. It takes a long time and a lot of grassland to raise a grass fed herd. Rangeland for grazing animals is very hard to find and much of it is inaccessible due to dense forests or mountainous areas. It must also be managed carefully so that entire ranges are not decimated by overgrazing. With a rapidly growing population, this is not a sustainable way to raise future herds.

From a humanitarian perspective, pastured animals are not made to live in confinement to endure the cruelties of modern factory farming. It may appear that the animals are treated more humanely, but in many instances their deaths are often just as terrifying and cruel…Treating animals humanely is a philosophy that is not shared by all.

Let us remember that terminology such as grass fed, hormone free, antibiotic free or free range does not mean organic. If it is organic, then the package should say so. The USDA has very specific rules that apply to products that profess to be organic. Many natural food stores sell hormone and antibiotic free products that may still have been fed grain, but only to a smaller degree.  Pastured animals sometimes graze on land that has been treated with chemicals, and have been found to contain as much as 14 times more pesticides than plants. These chemicals build up in their fatty tissues and can be passed on to their consumers. Many chemicals, such as DDT, can persist in the tissues of animals and in the environment that they graze in for many years.  

As a world population, we are now numbered in the billions, and we all have to find a way to live that is sustainable and just. We can’t continue to exploit our resources…we have to learn how to be responsible, along with protecting and preserving a more natural way of life. Making our footprint lighter is an ecological necessity, yet a world without grains would be a world filled with starvation, for both humans and animals.

So, grain fed, grass fed, organic, free range, what should we do?

Ultimately, the choice is yours…As with many areas of our lives, we need to be more informed about what we eat. If possible, we have to turn to our neighborhood farmers and butchers who will be able to provide us with the necessary information so that we can make the best food choices for our families. Many neighborhood butchers have forged relationships with quality producers who practice humane treatment of their herds. These businesses understand the importance of a sound business philosophy that supports local farmers who raise their animals with a higher level of care…it is not only the right thing to do, but also results in a more superior product for their customers.

Don’t buy your meat from a chain store, buy it from someone you trust. In Annapolis, we are fortunate to have two family run operations that support local producers, and who are able to provide you with superior quality products. Both the Butcher’s Block on Harry Truman Parkway in Annapolis (run by Steve and Nancy Le Barron) and My Butcher and More (run by Mike Smollen and his mother-in-law Frieda) on Forest Drive in Annapolis have the knowledge and experience to answer all of your questions. They are able to source any type of item you need, and both stores carry a full line of meat, sausages, poultry condiments, cold cuts, salads, sauces, dressings and rubs. The Butcher’s Block also carries a large assortment of wine, cheese and fresh baked bread.

There are many other producers in Maryland who do not have brick and mortar stores, but maintain websites where you can order your products and either pick up at their farms or some of the local farmers markets that they participate in. Some of these are, Cedar Run, Clark’s Farm, Maryland Sunrise Farm and Polyface.   

If you don’t live in Maryland, but want to know what you can do to support this effort, turn to your communities…shop in your neighborhood stores from mom and pop owners, or producers who participate in your local farmers markets. Get to know them by name, and learn to ask the important questions….  

As we come upon the last holiday of the Summer this Labor Day weekend, I am sure that many of you will be enjoying your favorite cuts of meat on the grill. Don’t get me wrong, the information provided was not intended to turn you into a vegetarian…it was merely intended to remind each of us of the importance to stay connected to our local farmers and producers, along with the businesses that support them. In this day and age, asking the right questions on anything you consume will yield the choice that is best for you.  

www.goodfoodgourmet.com


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